Most of Antigua's shops are clustered on St. Mary's Street or High Street in St. John's. Some stores are open Monday to Saturday from 8:30am to noon and 1 to 4pm, but this rule varies greatly from place to place -- Antiguan shopkeepers are an independent lot. Many of them close at noon on Thursday.

Duty-free items include English woolens and linens. You can also purchase Antiguan goods: local pottery, straw work, rum, floppy foldable hats, shell curios, and hand-printed fabrics.

If you're in St. John's on a Saturday morning, visit the fruit and vegetable market. The juicy Antiguan black pineapple alone is worth the trip.

One prime hunting ground in St. John's is the Redcliffe Quay waterfront on the southern edge of town, where nearly three dozen boutiques are housed in former warehouses set around tree-shaded, landscaped courtyards. Our favorite is A Thousand Flowers (tel. 268/462-4264), which sells linens, all natural fiber, rayon and other fabrics.

At the Gazebo (tel. 268/460-2776), expect a little bit of everything, a mass of south-of-the-border pottery to Indonesian wood items, and (our favorite) stunning blue-glaze plates. West Indies Oil Co. (tel. 268/462-0141) is a big hit with kids, offering British toys, beach games, island crafts, and more. Additional Redcliffe Quay shops include Isis (tel. 268/462-4602) for unique Egyptian jewelry, cotton gowns, and handcrafts; and The Goldsmitty (tel. 268/462-4601), where precious stones are set in unique, exquisite creations of 14- and 18-karat gold.

Noreen Phillips, Redcliffe Quay (tel. 268/462-3127), is one of the island's major fashion outlets. Cruise-ship passengers beeline here for both casual wear and beaded glitzy dress clothes. Island Hopper, Radcliffe Quay, St. Mary's Street (tel. 268/462-2972), specializes in Caribbean-made gifts and clothing, including T-shirts and casual wear, and handcrafts.

The Scent Shop, Lower High Street (tel. 268/462-0303), is the oldest and best perfume shop on the island, and also stocks an array of crystal. Shoul's Chief Store, St. Mary's Street at Market Street (tel. 268/462-1140), is an all-purpose department store selling fabric, appliances, souvenirs (more than 300 kinds), and general merchandise.

Heritage Quay, Antigua's first shopping-and-entertainment complex, features some 40 duty-free shops and an arcade for local artists and craftspeople. Its restaurants and food court offer a range of cuisines and views of St. John's Harbour. Many shops are open all day, Monday through Saturday.

At the foot of St. Mary's Street, stop in at Benjies Photo Centre (tel. 268/462-3619), a Kodak distributor and photofinisher, selling film and brand-name cameras. Fashiondock (tel. 268/462-9672) is known for its duty-free Prada, Moshino and Gucci accessories, plus other Italian styles. Sunseekers (tel. 268/462-4523) carries the largest collection of duty-free swimwear in the Caribbean. Colombian Emeralds (tel. 268/462-3462) is the world's largest retailer of these gemstones. Albert's Jewelry (tel. 268/462-3108) sells the best selection of watches on Antigua, plus china and crystal. Island Arts, upstairs at Heritage Quay (tel. 268/462-2787), was founded by Nick Maley, a makeup artist who worked on Star Wars and The Empire Strikes Back. You can purchase his own fine-art reproductions or browse through everything from low-cost prints to works by artists exhibited at the Museum of Modern Art in New York. You can also visit Nick's home and studio at Aiton Place, on Sandy Lane directly behind the Hodges Bay Club, 6km (4 miles) from St. John's. The residence is open Monday to Wednesday and on Friday, but call first (tel. 268/461-6324).

Other worthwhile specialty stores include Caribelle Batik, St. Mary's Street (tel. 268/462-2972), a reasonably priced outlet for the Romney Manor workshop on St. Kitts. The Caribelle label consists of batik and tie-dye beach wraps, scarves, and casual wear for women and men.

Rain Boutique, Lower St. Mary's (tel. 268/462-0118), offers casual clothes, formal wear, hats, scarves, shoes, jewelry, and handbags.

At Falmouth Harbour, Seahorse Studios & Gift Shop (tel. 268/460-1457) specializes in batiks, T-shirts, signs and table linens. Their affiliated branch at English Harbour, Seahorse Art Gallery (tel. 268/460-1485), sells paintings, engravings, and watercolors, with lots of emphasis on seascapes.

The best for last: Head for Harmony Hall, in Brown's Bay Mill, near Freetown (tel. 268/460-4120), following the signs along the road to Freetown and Half Moon Bay. This restored 1843 plantation house and sugar mill overlooking Nonsuch Bay is ideal for a lunch stopover or a shopping expedition. It displays an excellent selection of Caribbean arts and crafts. Lunch is served daily from noon to 4pm, featuring Green Island lobster, flying fish, and other specialties. Sunday is barbecue day.